Alexandria

One of the interesting things that’s turned up in my recent return to reading pre-Empire Roman history is just how embarrassed Julius Caesar, Mark Antony et al. were by how badly Rome as a city was outclassed by Alexandria at the time. In fact, this seems to have been the major impetus behind the urban improvement projects of Augustus– Rome needed to be made worthy of its status.

It’s satisfying for an Alexandria fan like me to read this. Admittedly, much of the Alexandria in question is now underwater, and the rest of it is under the pavement on which one now walks while there. It’s all about seaside and climate now… There are a few patches of history, but nothing like what you’d expect. You can see an old Roman amphitheater near the train station. There are also some catacombs, as well as “Pompey’s Pillar” (actually much much later– from Diocletian’s time). Pompey was struck dead the minute he landed in Egypt, though I can’t remember whether it was in Alexandria or Marsa Matrouh.

Even so, it always feels to me like there are plenty of ghosts about up there. And even if there weren’t, it would be a nice seaside getaway.